How to Choose a Cleanser — And When Double Cleansing Actually Helps
Cleansing is the step almost everyone rushes — and the one that quietly decides how well everything else in your routine performs. Get it right and your serums absorb better, your moisturiser sits comfortably, and your skin feels calm rather than tight. Get it wrong and you can spend the rest of the day fighting dryness, congestion or sensitivity you've accidentally created at the basin.
The trouble is that "cleanser" covers a dozen very different formulas, from feather-light micellar waters to rich cleansing oils. Below is a curator's guide to the main types we stock, who each one suits, and where the much-discussed idea of double cleansing genuinely earns its place.
- Match the cleanser to your skin, not the trend: gels for normal-to-oily, creams and milks for dry or reactive skin, oils and micellar for dissolving make-up and SPF.
- A good cleanser leaves skin comfortable — never squeaky or tight.
- Double cleansing (an oil or micellar first, a water-based cleanser second) is worth it in the evening if you wear make-up, SPF or heavy sunscreen — not something most people need every single wash.
- Cleanse twice a day at most; over-washing is one of the most common causes of a damaged barrier.
The cleanser types, decoded
Gel cleansers are the all-rounders. They rinse clean without stripping, suit most skin types and are ideal as a morning wash or the second step of an evening double cleanse. The Lamelle Serra Cleansing Gel (R275) is one of our most popular for a reason — it's soap-free and supports the barrier while it cleans, which is exactly what reactive skin wants. The DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel (R425), with aloe and chamomile, is another gentle daily option that calms as it purifies.
Cream and milk cleansers are the comfort choice for dry, mature or easily-irritated skin, and they come into their own through the colder months. They cleanse with lipids rather than foaming agents, so skin feels nourished afterwards. The DermaFix Hydra Silk Cleanser (R425) is a lovely silky option for dry or sensitive complexions.
Foaming cleansers give that satisfying lather without the tightness older foams were known for. The Lamelle Dermaheal Foaming Cleanser (R335) is mild enough for post-treatment and recovering skin, while the NTRYMED Cleansing Foam (R250) is a light, accessible everyday foam.
Cleansing oils and micellar formulas are the make-up and SPF dissolvers. Oil attracts oil, so they lift away sunscreen, foundation and the day's grime far more thoroughly than water-based cleansers can on their own. The Lamelle Essential Cleansing Oil (R590) is an oil-to-milk that rinses clean without a greasy film, and the mesoestetic micellar biphasic (R1,023) pairs micellar technology with nourishing oils for a gentle first cleanse.
Active cleansers carry ingredients like salicylic acid for oily, congestion-prone skin. The Lamelle Clarity Active Cleanse (R305) is a useful pick if breakouts are your main concern — though leave-on actives still do most of the heavy lifting.
So, do you need to double cleanse?
Double cleansing began in Korean and Japanese skincare and rests on a simple logic: an oil-based cleanser first to dissolve make-up, SPF and sebum, then a water-based cleanser to clear away sweat and residue. Dermatologists agree it gives a more thorough clean — as the Cleveland Clinic notes, it's especially useful for anyone wearing make-up or sunscreen, while most people are perfectly clean with a single thorough wash otherwise.
Our recommendation: reserve double cleansing for your evening routine, and only on days you've worn make-up or applied SPF generously (which, in South Africa, should be most days — see our note on protecting your barrier). In the morning, a single gentle gel or cream cleanse is plenty.
Building your cleansing step
- Identify your skin's baseline. Tight and flaky? Lean cream or milk. Shiny by midday? A gel suits you. Reactive and easily flushed? Gentle, soap-free and fragrance-light.
- Choose one everyday cleanser that leaves skin comfortable — this is your workhorse for mornings and second cleanses.
- Add a make-up dissolver (oil or micellar) if you wear make-up or sunscreen, for the first step at night.
- Resist over-washing. Twice a day is the ceiling. Stripping the skin only triggers more oil and more sensitivity — which is closely tied to your skin microbiome.
Frequently asked questions
Should my cleanser foam? Not necessarily. Foaming is about the formula, not the effectiveness. Plenty of excellent cream and oil cleansers don't lather at all.
Is it bad if my skin feels squeaky-clean? Yes — that "squeak" usually means the cleanser has stripped your natural oils. Skin should feel clean and comfortable, never tight.
Can I double cleanse every morning too? There's rarely a need. Overnight your skin only accumulates a little oil, so a single cleanse in the morning is ideal.
Which cleanser is best for combination skin? A balanced gel is usually the safest bet. Browse our combination skin edit, and consider pairing a lighter gel for warmer months with a creamier wash when the air turns dry.
Still unsure which to choose? Explore the full cleansers collection, or our curated edits for sensitive skin and dry skin. As always, these are the formulas we stock and trust in our clinic — and we're happy to help you match one to your skin.
